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What Lies Behind Lenses?

- Carol Driver -

It’s something most of us reserve for the bedroom or intimate encounters. But, for many women, stripping off and baring all is part of their everyday working lives.

From single mums and part-time receptionists looking to earn extra cash, to singers and A-list celebrities wanting to raise their profiles, there is only one thing these models have in common, and that’s confidence.

For the photographers and artists who immortalise these muses, each has their own interpretation of body beautiful.

Some prefer minimal curves while others opt for subjects with voluptuous lumps and bumps that would never grace the pages of fashion magazines such as Vogue or Harper’s – their beauty is very much in the eye of the beholder.

There are those who criticise this type of work, equating it to nothing more than pornography. Radical feminists say depicting women as sex objects is degrading – and does not have a place in the 21st century.

Artists are quick to defend what they do – as are the models who pose for them – claiming, although admittedly there is a fine line between the two, there is a significant difference.

Pornography, they say, is about being graphic. It’s ultimately about the end result - sexual gratification, whereas nude drawings or photography is about the artist and the muse. Life art is about making the observer think and capturing a moment, an expression or an interpretation.

Although this is deemed more acceptable with two consenting adults, sometimes these lines get blurred.  There is a seedier side to the industry – with hardly any formal regulations, it can be easy for those who want to abuse and manipulate the system to do so.

You no longer need to reach to the top shelf in a newsagent to find a magazine littered with pictures of naked or scantily clad women. And some young girls now view glamour modelling as a stepping stone to fame – making themselves vulnerable to abuse.

Thanks to increased leniency in the media, seeing pictures of nude celebrities is an everyday occurrence – with publications flying off the shelves if the right A-lister is published inside and hits on websites soaring if a “teaser” reveals a bit of flesh.
From Kate Winslet baring all in The Reader and Jennifer Aniston with just a tie on the front cover of GQ to Victoria Beckham following in her husband’s David’s footsteps and stripping to her underwear for an advertising campaign, indeed there’s money to be made for wearing nothing at all.

But all of these have come under fire for sending out the “wrong image” to today’s youngsters.

And high-profile celebrities can usually relax, safe in the knowledge that, should they be having a “bad body day”, they will have airbrushing and photo approval to fall back on – thus giving teenage girls an unrealistic goal to aspire to, leading to eating disorders such as anorexia and bulimia.

So with such a responsibility on their shoulders, what motivates models to take off their clothes and expose themselves and their vulnerability – often in front of strangers? Is it empowering? Or could it be attention seeking? Or searching for approval?

And for the artists, is it purely admiration of the female form, or, is it because, as one photographer puts it, “most men think I’ve got the best job in the world”?
For Mick Payton, 55, it started out as a way to earn extra money 18 years ago when he was working as a driving instructor, although he soon realised that he had a gift for taking pictures and has since become the “top of my trade”, giving lectures to other photographers across the country.

But his work – which is described as “erotic” and includes high-profile models and TV celebrities – has come under fire for being too explicit. And, at first when I speak to him, Mick is wary and defensive. After being misquoted and misrepresented, the artist is keen to be – and have his work – understood.
“I’ve been with my girlfriend for 22 years – and she’s a great girl,” Mick, who lives in Birmingham, explains. “She’s fine about what I can do as she can read into my images.

“If what she saw was a man perving through a lens, she wouldn’t stand for it. But she can see I’m treating them with respect, otherwise I would be in trouble.”
It’s that respect and trust – between model and artist – which allowed works such as Francois Boucher’s Nude On A Sofa, Picasso’s Blue Nude, Pal Fried’s Nude Of Nina and Lucian Freud’s Benefits Worker Sleeping, which sold for a record $33m last year, to exist.

But although the trust is there, it doesn’t rule out attraction. When there’s that spark between an artist and a model, it creates a photo or a painting which is in a different league. And, when you are surrounded by someone who you consider to be beautiful, inspirational and desirable, is it any wonder muses end up becoming so much more?

David Bailey is probably just as famed for his conquests as he is for his photography. When asked if there are any models who had posed for him who he had not has sex with, the 65-year-old simply replies: “A few.”

Bailey’s third wife, supermodel Marie Helvin, divorced him after finding photographs of his new young model, his now wife Catherine Dyer, that were so intimate “they made me gasp”.

He is proof that time and again obsessed artists will fall head over heels for their muse.

When I put this to Mick Payton, he turns the question back to me.
“Imagine,” he says, “that you’re taking photographs of a guy you didn’t really find attractive, do you think those images would be any good?
“Now think of yourself taking photos of someone you are attracted to...
“If, in the short term, you fall in love with that person, how can you get any better results?
“She has to be your Venus – if she can’t be, if your mind won’t let her be, there’s no point in picking up your camera.”

But what happens when that trust is betrayed? As fame increasingly becomes the career path many teenagers want to follow, these naive youngsters can put their hopes and dreams of making it big into the hands of those who just want to take advantage of them.

One case in particular highlights this type of manipulation and gave us a sordid look behind the scenes of the American fashion world. In November last year, a celebrity fashion designer was convicted of raping and molesting 20 aspiring models – some as young as 14 – over a six-year period.

Indian-born Anand Jon, 34, who dressed Hollywood socialite Paris Hilton and singer Janet Jackson before his arrest, had lured them to Los Angeles with promises of fame and fortune but instead used his power for his own perverse pleasure.

He is now facing life behind bars.

So can models still claim posing nude empowers them, when they could almost be accused of encouraging younger, more vulnerable girls to do the same?
Rachel McCarthy, 51, who runs www.modelreg.co.uk, the biggest regulated register of models in the country, disagrees that there isn’t a place for nude modelling in today’s society.

Now the mother of a grown-up daughter, she once posed nude for Australian artist Ron Mueck, and the “Spooning Couple” features in the permanent collection at the Tate.

“Yes, life art does send out the right image for 21st century women because, unlike other forms of modelling, all shapes and sizes and ages are embraced. In fact, artists often complain about the lack of larger ladies to paint or draw,” she says.
But is it a career Rachel would encourage young girls to follow?

“Certainly not!” she says. “It’s the Register Of Artists’ Models’ policy not to allow under 18s to join. We don’t get many underage kids asking, actually – far too scary for them I think!

“And, yes, we have heard about artists and photographers making inappropriate remarks and suggestions occasionally – but probably no more frequently than in any other line of work.

“I think you get perverts and offensive people in all walks of life.”

Enjoyment, empowerment, spiritual cleansing and a way to earn extra money – the motivations models give for taking off their clothes in the name of art are vast.
However, the way it is interpreted can be quite different.

When Marilyn Monroe posed nude for Bert Stern in 1962, in what is now called The Last Sitting, the outcome was an array of provocative and sensational pictures.
Bert said: “She was beautiful and untouched, it was as though she were just beginning.”

When last year the photographer asked Hollywood actress, Lindsay Lohan, to recreate those famous poses for the first time, she jumped at the chance.
Lindsay said the main reason behind wanting to take part in the shoot was what she felt Marilyn’s motivations were for baring all to the world: “Here is a woman who is giving herself to the public. She’s saying, ‘Look, you’ve taken a lot from me, so why don’t I give it to you myself.’ She’s taking control back.”

But it could also be argued, considering Marilyn took her own life just six weeks later, here was a women pushed to the edge, not in her right mind.

Or it could be that, like other high-profile celebrities, she was offered an amount of cash, she felt she could not refuse.

For Amanda Swan, a 42-year-old fashion/art nude model from Surrey, who can earn up to £400 a day posing for photographers for magazines, it’s clear money is a motivation.

In October last year, she met John Myatt – the man who was involved in what Scotland Yard called the biggest art fraud of the 20th Century – when she was asked to pose for a Sky Arts TV programme in which he teaches aspiring artists how to paint in the style of the world’s greatest artists.

“Posing nude is different to any other job I have had in the past. I consider it to be making use of what God gave me in a tasteful way,” she says.

“If people are critical of what I do, I say they shouldn’t judge others.

“As long as your grandmother could view the work then it's pretty safe!  However, all people are free to have their own opinion and each individual has their own boundaries, those should be respected. I respect their views.”

For life art models, who take off their clothes for artists either in one-on-one or group sessions, the reality can be quite different. Earning up to £15 an hour – sometimes nothing at all – they bare all for very little money. So what, other than financial rewards, do they get?

“I had attended art classes so knew what was involved,” part-time life model Lisa Spencer, from Essex, says. “I wanted an interesting part-time job with the sort of hours that would fit around family commitments.

“The first time I posed nude I was preoccupied with the problem of keeping still. The nakedness didn't bother me.
 “The enjoyment comes from being part of the creative process. Physically, it can be challenging and a discipline to use the body. There is some motivation to keep fit and strong and well-groomed, which must do some good for one’ self-respect as well as fitness levels.

“To women who are critical of what I do, I wouldn’t say much. It is their problem, not mine. The human body to my mind is a most wonderful and endlessly fascinating part of the natural world.”

For naturist Alison Glithero, 44, a full-time life model since 1999, posing nude is something that fits in with her beliefs.

Her father was a Methodist lay preacher, and Alison and her sisters were not allowed to wear make-up, have their ears pierced or wear trousers.

“The philosophy was we are as God intended and accept and care for ourselves the way we are,” she says. “I guess his upbringing stuck and I have been a naturist for more than 20 years.

“I can honestly say I am more self-conscious when clothed – I hate clothes and the social labels attached to them. In a room full of unclothed people, you cannot tell a beggar from a billionaire.

“I don’t get nervous posing nude but do get nervous if asked to pose clothed. Odd, I know, but I guess it’s because I am not particularly confident in clothes and it goes back to being judged on one’s appearance.

But despite these valid reasons, nude photography and art will always offend somebody. What may start as an innocent drawing or photographs can have repercussions.

As it becomes more commonplace within society, some artists feel the need to go one step further with their work, to push the boundaries of what mass society deems acceptable.

In May last year, a photography exhibition in Australia by Bill Henson was closed down by police.

There were images of naked 12 and 13-year-olds, which were seized after a complaint by a child protection campaigner. Henson said he photographed adolescents because they reflected a “humanity and vulnerability” and that he had “left the interpretation for the images to audiences”.

Although we, as an audience, are perhaps now less shocked when we see a picture which features too much bare skin, some photographers and artists are wary of getting involved in this type of work in case it impacts on their reputations.
Sandro Hyams, 52, whose clients include Vogue, Elle and L’Oreal, says he has “no idea” what motivates women to pose nude.

“I am predominately a beauty photographer but have done nudes in the past which have been published in various books such as Venus and Femmes published by Carlton,” he says.

“Without being derogatory to the other photographers, there’s a lot of stuff in there which isn’t to my taste – they’re showing everything which isn’t my thing.
“If I were to do something like that, I would probably lose clients.

“I’m a hot-blooded male, but I see things differently. I’m a 52-year-old father of three with two teenage daughters and I have no idea what motivates women to pose nude. Perhaps it’s an insecurity ting. I don’t know. I don’t understand it.”
Perhaps it’s that insecurity that leads many models to say they prefer posing nude for artists rather than photographers because it’s less intrusive, which could be interpreted as embarrassment. They say photographs are too explicit whereas drawings seldom look like the muse, giving them a cover to hide behind, even though they are exposed. 

“I wouldn’t mind if the artists wanted to show something shocking or ugly – the choice is theirs and that’s what artistic freedom is about,” Lisa Spencer says.
Rachel McCarthy agrees: “I prefer life drawing to photography as it’s less intrusive and often drawings don’t resemble you in the slightest.

“A lot of the drawings look nothing like me. Artists tend to put their own interpretation into their work. Each has their own style – it’s nothing personal the way they choose to represent you.”

In artwork, models can be left faceless, without a head, cartoon-like or with unrealistic expressions. And, even though they say the camera never lies, even photographers can go to lengths to ensure the nude in front of the lens in unrecognisable.

David PenpraseDavid Penprase, an award-winning photographer in Cornwall, who has worked with nude models since 1980 and has had three books published – including his latest, Passion, Pleasure And Pain - will often cover his models in clay or other materials to add “texture” to the shoot.   

When asked to describe his own work in just five words, David replies:

Questioning and visually interesting (hopefully).”

“I prefer to give the viewer something new or unexpected to explore. I do try to ask something of them, maybe not even to like what I do but certainly not to ignore it. I want the image to hit the viewer at some emotional level,” he says.

“The idea for an image comes from how I see the model. Although they will be posing nude, my work is not sexy in an arousing way. In many cases there is often an androgynous element to the image – especially in those where texture has a large part to play.”

And it’s this less “in your face” type of method David uses that will ultimately get an artist noticed for their creativity.

When it comes to nudity in art, as a society, we’ve seen it all (if you pardon the pun), yet many people are still fascinated by it.

It will continue to shock those such as feminists or the religious who believe women should use their minds instead of their bodies to earn a living or to feel empowered.
But it will also continue to inspire those who believe it’s an art form.

What you can’t escape is that being nude is natural – and when an adult muse and adult artist work together to capture that beauty, it’s their choice and right to do so.
Many women feel admiration for those who do put themselves under the spotlight – warts and all.

“I haven’t come across any women who criticise what I do,” Rachel McCarthy says.
“A lot of them say, ‘Oh my God, I could never do that!’ but more in a, ‘Well done!’ kind of way than in a critical way.”

And I, for one, echo those sentiments and take my hat off to those brave enough to bare all – my clothes, however, remain firmly on my back.

 


 “In return I would hope to be fun to work with”- Gregory Brown

If I book a model then I pay her or him the going rate. In between £150 - £250 per day. If the model would like to do a collaboration shoot. With a share of the pictures to be used by both parties... both model and photographer work for their time. This is called time for print, or Time for CD. The time for Print would be for more inexperienced models who are willing to work to get some good images for their portfolio.

At the end of the shoot. I edit down the chosen images. I then send a sample of each image. The model chooses 10-20 images that I then retouch to a high standard and send to the model for their own portfolio.

Once booked I would expect the model to be punctual. Friendly, easy to work with and come along with clothes, make up and props for the shoot. I like a model to be creative and come up with distinctive poses, anything out of the ordinary.

In return I would hope to be fun to work with, I supply: the studio or make arrangement for both myself and the model to get to the location, photographic equipment, lighting, props. A cheery attitude and many ideas for each part of the shoot.

I am thinking of creating great images, using the female form, painting with light across the body. The light for the photographer is key as posing is for the model. I am really concerned in attaining high quality original images. This is purely professional. Creating great photographic art really makes me very happy.

I do not think that taking clothes off for a public display a notion of expressing 'love' of a 'joyous heart' that a model and photographers share. The model and photographer have a special relationship but from my point of view... it is a union of ideas and creativity, not love. We are both happy and pleased if we see an image that we have created and it is a wow photograph.

And, I do not get involved with my models, I buy them lunch.

 


Glamour photography is only intended to arouse male sexuality!  - Christian Hough


When you decide to take pictures of nudes, what do you expect that you would give and receive in return?

     - Within a business sense, I like to give guidance and encouragement to each subject and expect effort and patience in return. However, nude shoots aren't really about business or selling a given product and to this end require a sense of passion and emotion from the model to engage the viewer. Expression, shape, tone and lighting become everything. If the image is missing these elements it becomes almost meaningless.


As you ask nudes to lay bare in front of camera(s) taking their clothes off, what is that makes feel inside your heart?

     - In today's society, we seem to forget that being nude is our natural state. None of us were born clothed, yet the whole idea of nudity seems so taboo with some people. This is the beauty of fine art nude; no clothing, no barriers and no pretence.


Is taking clothes off for a public display a notion of expressing 'love' of a 'joyous heart' that a model and photographers share?

     - I think all photographers will probably view fine art nude differently; however, will ultimately have the same aims, which is to produce a great photograph. Personally, I like my images to reflect different emotions, so the viewer attaches something to the image. Rather than a quick glance, the image has to be processed by the viewer and for me, the photograph needs to contain a blend of motion, sensuality and on occasions eroticism.


Why do men like watching nudes let alone taking pictures of them? What's in there?

     - This is an interesting question and perhaps is a reflection on the ratio of male to female photographers. It is also important to distinguish a 'guy with camera' from professional photographers that shoot fine art. The disciplines of glamour photography and fine art tend to be a world away in concept, mood, lighting and emotion, as glamour photography is only intended to arouse male sexuality and not much else. Fine art is intended to move the emphasis further away from sexuality.


Models might like to save the integrity by not getting involved with photographers or artists physically, but is there a situation that you have been physically involved? If so how did you feel before you did and after you did so?

     - My integrity as a photographer is paramount and I have never been physically involved with a model. I go to great lengths to make models feel comfortable, which includes having other females, such as hair and make-up artists present on set. Its good to get emotionally passionate about a shoot; but not so professional to get physically passionate about a model.

 


“My males friends are jealous of me”
-By David Crossley, 38-year-old full-time artist and founder of LifeART.org

Maybe life art is for some artists. The perception to non-artists is more erotic than the actual practice. I am  too caught up in my art to let my mind stray into other areas. I am continually developing my style. It is a combination of accurate draught of the human form with a harmonious influx of loose line. 

In the class, I only feel a great pressure to complete a piece of art that pleases me. I feel nothing towards the model other than respect. Working one-to-one, however, is completely different. There is an indescribable unity. The quietness disturbed by only the scratching of pencil, the concentration of the artist as I mentally beat myself up with effort and frustration, the model's commitment to hold her aching pose, the curiosity in her mind as to the progress of my work and the vulnerability of her nudity in stark contrast to clothed artist. Perhaps it is erotic after all!

The size of the model is unimportant. Interesting or pretty facial features help to inspire the artist and a pleasant personality often translates into the pose. They must be patient, reliable and have good stamina.

My girlfriend has never worried about me drawing nude models as she has often drawn them too, with or without me. If a partner of mine ever found it to be a problem then we clearly would have no future together. She is less keen on my friends modelling nude for me but if somebody wants to be drawn I will enjoy challenge whoever they are. My previous girlfriend was so at ease with my work that she was happy let her sister pose for me.

My males friends are jealous of me drawing nude women all the time and my female friends consider it to be a dream job for a man.

My work is anatomical study. It doesn't make any difference if I am drawing the model's arm, back or torso. I see beauty before me that I am trying to translate into two-dimensional art. Genitals and breasts are not the main focus. I am not doing it to be turned on and neither should the model be.

Women who model nude; they are a Godsend! I respect their involvement in creating my art. On a professional level, I judge them on skill. On a friendship level, I judge them on personality. Other than that, they are just regular people.

 


"I love it!" -Amanda Swan, who is in the cover.

When you decided to do modelling, and often nudes, what did you expect that you would offer and receive in return?

     - I look after my body and I am very proud of it and as long as the photography is very tasteful I get a warm feeling from seeing the results.


What is typical situation when you feel comfortable to take your clothes off for a photographer or an artist?

     - If I've seen the previous work of the photographer and like his/her work. I've been a good judge of character and if I have a good feeling about a person, I feel comfortable posing nude.


As you lay bare in front of camera(s) taking your clothes off, what is that you make the photographer/artist feel and what do you feel inside yourself?

     - When working with a professional photographer it makes me feel very positive if he/she shows enthusiasm and inspires me to be very natural and at ease. Therefore my underlying joyfulness and exuberance shows up better in the photographs taken which is all important.


Is taking clothes off for a public display a notion of expressing 'love' of a 'joyous heart' that a model such as you has?

I feel that love is separate from Photography which is Art.


"I am a gay man,  and I mostly photograph the male nude" - Peter Arnold
 
I usually stop people in the street to ask if I can take naked photographs.  I am always looking for beauty,  or the essence of a remarkable photograph. To date,  no one has ever said no. I think they are mostly flattered,  and when they see my work,  they are very keen. 

I think that the model and photographer share a very special closeness,  and both want the end product to be something of exceptional beauty.

I think the nude is very primeval,  and instinctive in all of us.  People have been fascinated by the nude torso,  both female and male,   throughout history.  It is inspired by vanity and desire - so it satisfies the inner instinct.

I am happy with a long term partner,  however, I do feel that a photographer and his model develop something special  together.

Both are keen to attain a special result,  and this can often transfer to the emotions.  Many models have wanted to have a relationship or affair with me,  - in a way they feel the photographer can make them special,  and bring out something within them that has never been recorded or developed before.  I suppose they can relate that to sex.

By the way,  you've got to be aware that I am a gay man,  and I mostly photograph the male nude. You can see my work on www.menexposed.co.uk.  and also click on black adonis,  which is my next book.

 


- Carol Driver is a journeying journalist, who writes largely on travel and humanity related topics. 

We are thankful to all who have taken part in the preparation of this story with their practical support and lending of the pictures. Below are some great websites to check–editor

Mick Payton = www.mickpayton.com
David Crossley= www.LifeART.org
Amanda Swan= www.amandaswan.net)
Rachel McCarthy= www.modelreg.co.uk
Gregory Brown= http://www.gregorybrownphotography.com
Christian Hough= www.christianhough.com

 

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